We made it out of Belarus on the train this morning. Before we start we have never met a bunch of more friendly and helpful people. Can do must be the national motto . But... Belarus outside the capital is not geared up for travellers let alone tourists, let alone bicycle tourists. The hotel we spent the night in yesterday was a separate entry to a few floors of a block of 
flats, managed by what appeared to be the local police station. The sign saying it was a hotel was about as big as a doctors brass plate round the back door. There were no restaurants.
flats, managed by what appeared to be the local police station. The sign saying it was a hotel was about as big as a doctors brass plate round the back door. There were no restaurants. Here is a picture of our Camp
However two days before we had a fantastic time on the bikes. Superb roads, no traffic and beautiful countryside. Lots of lovely interactions with locals who couldn't have been more helpful. Pity about all those yellow signs (the only ones we ever saw in English) saying Border Zone do not enter without permissions. Ted to Sarah " We haven't got permissions" Sarah to Ted "Who cares press on" I didn't like it much and we cycled like the clappers.
Ted told me later that the Foreign Office website says the most common reason for Brits being arrested in Belarus is for infringing the border regulations.
Our time in Belarus gave us the best and the worst days of the trip so far. The best day was when we left Grodno - full of apprehension that the roads would be full of potholes and maniac truck drivers. Instead it was blissful and sunny. All the trucks disappeared to Lithuania and the road was virually empty. We did 120 Km and decided to camp - there was no hotel in any case. We pulled off the road near a village and asked various people if it was OK to put up our tent - we kept getting directed down into the village itself and finally led towards the largest house that backed onto a series of beautiful lakes. We were given the OK to put up our tent and soon were visited by a chap who spoke some English and was the nephew of the owner of the house. Next thing we were invited in to use the loo - by the time I got out of the loo Ted was already ensconced at the dining table drinking vodka. We were plied with cold cuts - it was a birthday celebration of 2 of the men of the family. As the evening progressed they got out the accordion and started singing Polish folksongs ( most of this part of Belarus is populated by Poles).
The next day was probably the worst we have experienced. It started to rain and we kept seeing more of those pesky yellow signs. By 17.00 we were soaked, cold and were trying to find a hotel in a town that seemed to be under a foot of water. We finally located the hotel only to be told it was in the military border zone and we couldn't stay. We had to leave the town. The next hotel was 35 KM further on and we had already done over 100 km. It was still pouring. Brainwave - let's get a big taxi. The elderly lady receptionist in the hotel leapt into action and a taxi arrived - too small for us and the bikes but a people carrier was summoned and we were quoted 20 euro for the ride - soounded like a bargain and we would have paid almost anything at this point - the lady in the hotel was so pleased she kept kissing Ted. Finally we were deposited at the hotel Ted described above - we would never have found it on our own.
It appears that it is not possible to stay in any hotel in Belarus which is less than 50km from any border. Given the uncertainty concerning crossing the border on a Bike we put our bikes on a train this morning and are now in Vilnius in Lithuania. Paradise. We have just had the first hot meal in four days. Shops look like shops. Hotels have big signs up so you can see what it is.
The train journey was fraught with stress. We arrived at the station at 08.00 having sussed it out the day before. Unfortunately the ticketing computer was down. I was waiting ou
tside keeping an eye on the bikes but I could hear a raised voices coming through the window and some woman screeching. I feared for Teddy. After some time I went in to see what was happening - the ticket hall was packed with anxious people wanting to catch the same train we did but the tickets were having to be allocated by hand and seat numbers called off on the telephone - hence the shrieking. Ted finally emerged ashen faced - with tickets - he hadn't dared ask for bicycle tickets. It was even more difficult to get the bikes in this train - higher off the platform and very narrow doors. There was no luggage van so we had to wheel them down a corridor that was several centimeters narrower than our handlebars. As is normal in Belarus the entire occupants of the carriage rose to assist us. The bikes were hoisted on to couchettes taking up 3 seats each. The train was mainly occupied by large ladies off across the border for a spot of smuggling. At the stop before the border there was a duty free facility. The ladies got on with capacious bags that clinked. Once on they distributed the vodka and cigarettes to other ladies to get through Lithuanian customs. Once the customs officer had walked down the train the goodies were collected up again. I think they were also taking over illicit sausages and other foodstuffs secreted about their persons but it was difficult to tell.
However two days before we had a fantastic time on the bikes. Superb roads, no traffic and beautiful countryside. Lots of lovely interactions with locals who couldn't have been more helpful. Pity about all those yellow signs (the only ones we ever saw in English) saying Border Zone do not enter without permissions. Ted to Sarah " We haven't got permissions" Sarah to Ted "Who cares press on" I didn't like it much and we cycled like the clappers.
Ted told me later that the Foreign Office website says the most common reason for Brits being arrested in Belarus is for infringing the border regulations.
Our time in Belarus gave us the best and the worst days of the trip so far. The best day was when we left Grodno - full of apprehension that the roads would be full of potholes and maniac truck drivers. Instead it was blissful and sunny. All the trucks disappeared to Lithuania and the road was virually empty. We did 120 Km and decided to camp - there was no hotel in any case. We pulled off the road near a village and asked various people if it was OK to put up our tent - we kept getting directed down into the village itself and finally led towards the largest house that backed onto a series of beautiful lakes. We were given the OK to put up our tent and soon were visited by a chap who spoke some English and was the nephew of the owner of the house. Next thing we were invited in to use the loo - by the time I got out of the loo Ted was already ensconced at the dining table drinking vodka. We were plied with cold cuts - it was a birthday celebration of 2 of the men of the family. As the evening progressed they got out the accordion and started singing Polish folksongs ( most of this part of Belarus is populated by Poles).
The next day was probably the worst we have experienced. It started to rain and we kept seeing more of those pesky yellow signs. By 17.00 we were soaked, cold and were trying to find a hotel in a town that seemed to be under a foot of water. We finally located the hotel only to be told it was in the military border zone and we couldn't stay. We had to leave the town. The next hotel was 35 KM further on and we had already done over 100 km. It was still pouring. Brainwave - let's get a big taxi. The elderly lady receptionist in the hotel leapt into action and a taxi arrived - too small for us and the bikes but a people carrier was summoned and we were quoted 20 euro for the ride - soounded like a bargain and we would have paid almost anything at this point - the lady in the hotel was so pleased she kept kissing Ted. Finally we were deposited at the hotel Ted described above - we would never have found it on our own.
It appears that it is not possible to stay in any hotel in Belarus which is less than 50km from any border. Given the uncertainty concerning crossing the border on a Bike we put our bikes on a train this morning and are now in Vilnius in Lithuania. Paradise. We have just had the first hot meal in four days. Shops look like shops. Hotels have big signs up so you can see what it is.
The train journey was fraught with stress. We arrived at the station at 08.00 having sussed it out the day before. Unfortunately the ticketing computer was down. I was waiting ou
tside keeping an eye on the bikes but I could hear a raised voices coming through the window and some woman screeching. I feared for Teddy. After some time I went in to see what was happening - the ticket hall was packed with anxious people wanting to catch the same train we did but the tickets were having to be allocated by hand and seat numbers called off on the telephone - hence the shrieking. Ted finally emerged ashen faced - with tickets - he hadn't dared ask for bicycle tickets. It was even more difficult to get the bikes in this train - higher off the platform and very narrow doors. There was no luggage van so we had to wheel them down a corridor that was several centimeters narrower than our handlebars. As is normal in Belarus the entire occupants of the carriage rose to assist us. The bikes were hoisted on to couchettes taking up 3 seats each. The train was mainly occupied by large ladies off across the border for a spot of smuggling. At the stop before the border there was a duty free facility. The ladies got on with capacious bags that clinked. Once on they distributed the vodka and cigarettes to other ladies to get through Lithuanian customs. Once the customs officer had walked down the train the goodies were collected up again. I think they were also taking over illicit sausages and other foodstuffs secreted about their persons but it was difficult to tell. 
Here's a typical breakfast stop. You need to click on the picture to get the benefit. (this is true of all the pics on the blog)
And here's a picture of our anonymous hotel 
Here's sarah at Hitlers blown up bunker
And here's a picture of Ted with his girlfriend in the hotel we couldn'd stay in. You can see how wet we were.
